Wednesday, June 17, 2009

dear oaxaca...

Dear Oaxaca,

Our time was short....too short, really. I hope to someday return to rekindle our love affair, but I'm not sure when that will be, as my life right now is somewhat unpredictable. Though I only knew you a few short months, my love for you is strong.

I will miss so much about you: your delicious food - mangoes and Pechote sushi and quesillo and endless stacks of tortillas; how you can tell when I am tiring of your heat and you respond with a cool thunderstorm; your amazing art, whether displayed in galleries or sprayed on the side of buildings for all to see; the people who, no matter what their opinions, good, bad, right, wrong, voice those opinions openly; your beautiful beaches and mountains and hot springs and jungles. You really are everything a girl could ask for.
You introduced me to so many things and people as well: Kacki and Augustin and Lloyda of ProMexico; salsa dancing Ney; Julio, the surfing wonder; my partner in Mexican crime Kate; crazy Nacho, Blanca, Kayla, Josiel and Osmar; Lindsay and the handful of other travelers who passed through Oaxaca and became part of my little circle. Sigh, I miss them already.

And even though I'm returning to an old and familiar love known as Chicago, know that I will always hold a special place in my heart for you and that I will be thinking of you while I'm gone.

Much love forever and always.

E

Monday, June 15, 2009

why yes. yes, i am a rockstar.

So the pinche swine flu kind of put a damper on the whole guitar lessons thing, but thanks to the magic of YouTube and Chordie.com, I've been teaching myself. So far, I've got a whole 5 songs in my repertoire, which includes:
  • Sea of Love - the Cat Powers version
  • Forever - Ben Harper
  • Gray or Blue - Jaymay
  • Hysteric - Yeah Yeah Yeahs
  • First Day of My Life - Bright Eyes
Kate and I worked on our act while hanging in our cabana in Zicatela, so hopefully we'll be ready for our farewell open mic night at Nueva Babel. We shall see, we shall see. But I'm digging the guitar. After our July honeymoon at Sea World, I think we'll be ready to take our act on the road.

Peace.

surfing o.a.x.

The backs of my legs are burnt, my knees, hips, and ribs are bruised, my shoulders and back are more sore than they've ever been, but it was definitely worth it.

I've attempted to surf before - Costa Rica, Australia, New Zealand, Fiji, Peru, Florida, New York, California - but I think Puerto might be my new fav spot. I didn't actually surf Puerto or Playa Zicatela because those were for the super hardcore crazy Aussies that were on a surfing pilgramage or something - Zicatela is apparently big time - but I did surf Playa Carrazilillo, the beginner beach, and it was crazy fun.
Kate and I took 3 days of surf lessons with Roger and Julio "Herpules" Soto at Carrazilillo. We'd get up in the morning, eat some mangoes, buy some bread from Cafecito, an awesome panaderia, and taxi it over to Carrazilillo. We did 3 hours in the water the first 2 days and after that, I was rocking pretty hard, or at least as hard as you can rock Carrazilillo. I was standing up on every wave and by day 3 Julio was attempting to teach me some style - walking out to the end of the board, doing fancy turns, handstands on the board, etc. I didn't quite get the handstand thing down, but whatever, I was new.
The last day we only got in an 1.5 hours because Julio was dying to get to the Punta. It was so funny because the night before, no one was out in the town because the big waves were coming the next morning at the Punta. The whole town revolves around surfing. Anyway, we let Julio peace out to go get his surf on. Not gonna lie, we were pretty exhausted anyway, so it was good for everyone.
And now I'm back in the ciudad for my last few days in the OAX. Sad face. I'm going to miss you, OAX...

More pics of Tulum and Puerto on Flickr.

Peace.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

la buena vida

How can you not love it? I did the conference thing in Florida, which was actually really fun and quite productive for work. Got to hang out with the boss man a bit, whom I see maybe once a year, got to meet all of our Bonner partners, some reps from other cool organizations (check out the Pulitzer Center for news coverage of international issues and RESULTS which is an advocacy organization).

And now I am working, poolside. I took a real live vacation Monday - Wednesday, heading to the secluded beach cabanas of Tulum, meeting Oaxaca Lindsay over there for a few days of complete bliss. It is absolutely insane to me that places like Tulum aren't populated with massive resorts and things. Obviously there are, but where we were was pretty abandoned (partly because of the pinche swine flu, but even if there were more tourists at the cabanas, there just really weren't that many cabanas to be occupied).
We spent the first few days riding our bikes and checking out the local sites. The water in Tulum was seriously all kinds of greens and blues and it kills me how unbelievably clear it was. It also kills me that I have not found a home someplace like that because I really think I should. Perhaps tourism is my calling and I need to take up residency at such beaches.
Anyway, aside from the beaches, my other fav part of Tulum were the cenotes, which are scattered around the region. I've never heard of these cenotes, but apparently they're all over the region. Supposedly some meteor hit and created these underground caverns, which have since been filled with rain water and are great for diving. Some scientists believe this meteor played a significant part in the extinction of the dinosaurs. We just went to one, but it was INCREDIBLE. The fotos don't do them justice.
When not biking around checking out cenotes or frollicking in the crystal clear waters, we basically hammocked it up a lot, read a lot (I'm reading Even Cowgirls Get the Blue by Tom Robbins - love him), and chatting it up with random people. It was such a great few days.

I bid farewell to Lindsay on Wednesday, and went on sola, flying from Cancun to Mexico City to Puerto Escondido on the Pacific Coast. Kate and crew are meeting me here tonight, so I'm working from my hotel pool. The beach here doesn't really compare to that of Tulum, but there is a pool, hammocks, delicious mangoes, and tomorrow we start our surf camp, so I'm super excited. Although, yesterday I went out and watched the surfing a bit and it seemed pretty intense, so I'm also a little nervous. Hopefully we don't die.

Anyway, I don't think it gets much better than this. I've already done two conference calls today, all while sipping on agua de mango and taking intermittent dips in the pool. =) Hope your week is going as well as mine!

Peace.

P.S. - So tourism is still slow and you can tell it's hurting these communities. Especially traveling sola, the Mexicans are loving talking to me, mostly about the conspiracy that was the swine flu and how it's hurt the economy. Tulum was insanely empty and most of the beachfront restaurants were completely closed because there was no business. Some of the cabanas too. If anyone is looking to take a quick break from life, flights to Cancun are cheap. You can take a bus from Cancun to Tulum for 100 pesos (2 hours, less than $10) and cabanas are cheap and they're usually willing to bargain since occupancy is so low (we stayed in a really nice one for 300 pesos, which came out to about $12/night).
Our cabana at Diamante K, which is apparently owned by some famous telenovela star!It seriously is one of the most amazing beaches I've ever seen (and I like to think I've seen my share of beaches). Plus, you can rent a moto, take a collectivo, or ride your bike to cool ruin sights (either the main ruins on the beach or Coba ruins, which are super cool, situated in the jungle). I think the Department of Tourism here should hire me up. =)

Saturday, June 6, 2009

crazy travel story #7910

It started with a storm. I was in Florida for a conference for the past few days and it stormed the entire time. I had a 3PM flight out today, flying through Houston and on to Cancun to begin my beach week.

First, the storms in Orlando caused my flight out to be delayed by 2 hours. By the time we got to Houston, I had missed my connecting flight, but they put me on the next flight to Cancun. After making my way to my new gate, they immediately announced that they were heavily overbooked and were offering a $300 travel voucher, first class upgrade, free hotel and 2 free meals for anyone who volunteered to fly tomorrow.

Since I really don't have anywhere to be anytime soon other than on a beach somewhere in Mexico, I figured I'd be generous and give up my seat on the plane. I went up to the counter, and turns out they were having a lot of trouble getting 7 people to switch their tickets, so they were offering $500 travel vouchers. Not a bad deal. I took it, happily.

After collecting my new boarding pass (first class boarding pass), I made my way to the hotel shuttle. I'm staying at the Double Tree, which is pretty swank. Not only am I staying at the Double Tree, but I'm staying at a suite at the Double Tree. When I tried to check-in, the only non-smoking room they had available was a suite, so, due to my asthma and general disdain for the way smoke-y rooms smell, I was upgraded to the suite.

All that, and I'll still be lying on the beaches of Tulum by noon tomorrow. I seriously wonder when the travel gods are going to realize they've been treating me a little too good. It worries me a little.

So now I just have to figure out what to do with my $500 travel voucher and try not to get too used to flying first class. Thailand? Ireland? Brazil? Or I could save it up for my flights to India? Blow it on my Austin tickets in October for Austin City Limits? Who knows. But I like it.

Peace from Houston.

Monday, June 1, 2009

pauly meets oaxaca

Paul came to visit! It was great to see him and let him see a little bit of my life. Sometimes I feel like my family and friends really have no idea what my life is like, which is fair, since I feel like my life changes on a regular basis, if not daily. But it was great that he came down to explore for a few days.

Since he only had a few days, we literally did a whirlwind tour - Monte Alban, Hierve el Agua, Tlocalula Market, Sierra Norte, etc. Some pics from our excursions.

Hierve el Agua (Boiling Water) - Natural hot springs outside of Oaxaca City. Nature's very own infinity edge pool.
Mountain biking in Cuajimoloyas in Sierra Norte.
I heart tiny flowers. I can't help it.
More on Flickr.

Tomorrow I'm off to Florida for a 4-day conference, then back for some beach adventures. Tulum for 4 days and Puerto Escondido for 4 days of surf camping. =) Life's pretty good.

Peace.